Current Tree Grower’s Diary Letters
Post your letters about trees here and I’ll do my best to help you find an answer!
Disclaimer: I am not a tree expert, just a novice who has been studying trees for quite some time now. If you require an expert opinion, I suggest the forums over at TreeHelp.com or the tree forum at GardenWeb.
If you leave a letter, please state in the letter where you’re writing from so that we have a general idea of your climate zone. THANKS for all your encouragement and support!
Hi everybody — Julie here — I just wanted to test this out to see if how it will work. I got five tree letters today and have stopped posting them on the letters page at at TGD.com because it takes me too much time. But, if you post your letters in here, it will be much easier for me to respond, and for others to read and comment as well, giving you more opinions than just mine. That’s got to be a good thing.
Comment by Jules — April 10, 2007 @ 9:16 pm
How often do you add sulphur to your soil for the dogwood? Do I just sprinkle it on top of the soil? Can I use it for other trees as well?
Hi Mari. Actually, what I add to the soil for my dogwood is bone meal. Now, I’m no chemical expert, so if sulphur is a big part of bone meal, I don’t know. I buy a bag of stuff that says “bone meal” and not a bag of stuff that says “garden sulphur” or something like that. Anyway, I sprinkle bone meal in the spring, probably 2 cups worth of lovely cremeated bones (ew) probably from some creature I’d rather not have sprinkled on my yard. I spread it out to the dripline, and every year I fully intend to do this again in the fall, but never seem to get around to it. I don’t imagine that bone meal would hurt the other trees, but just to be safe, I’d go easy on it the first couple of times you use it. Also, if you have pets that hang out in the yard, they may very well roll around in the bone meal and try to eat it, which is really gross. Squirrels will pick at it too. I put the bone meal down underneath the spring layers of newspaper mulch.
Comment by Mari Hayes — April 12, 2007 @ 9:37 pm
Hi Julie - love your photos as always, where are all the tree pics ?? I miss them .. You are very talented you know.
I am having a hip replacement next week, will be off work for 6 weeks, I can see there will be lots of web surfing to be done, plus read and put my herbarium together, something I have wanted to do for years. I have alot of pressed plants sitting around under piles of books, nice acid-free paper and I`m set for awhile.
It is autumn here, the air is cool and the light soft and golden - my favourite season.
Arohanui Julie
Hi Marcia! Great to hear from you again! So cool to think of fall beginning there in New Zealand. I just subscribed to your blog using my new cool bloglines account which puts my subscribed blogs in bold when there’s a new update. Now if that doesn’t provide incentive to update your blog, I don’t know what will! I’ll add you to my prayer list about your surgery, and I’ll add an extra one about giving you some fun reading material. I really love that “the light soft and golden” phrase. Thanks for that visual, hon. Peace, Jules
Comment by Marcia — April 13, 2007 @ 3:47 am
You’ve combined two of my faivorite things on your site, tree’s and art. I often come here to unwind and enjoy your wonderful work.
Thank you for doing this!
Mary Belibasakis
Metuchen, NJ
Comment by mary — April 15, 2007 @ 6:06 pm
Hi,
I enjoyed very much reading your story about the large old purple-leafed beech that was cut down before its time. I especially liked that you seem not to have become embittered or angry about it. I’ve always had a great fondness for beech trees, despite not growing up in a part of the Midwest where they were neither native nor widely used as introduced ornamentals.
Now I live in Denver, where they are even less common. About twenty-two years ago I planted one in my front yard, and it has grown from eight feet to now twenty-five feet tall. That’s slow, I know, but beeches are slow and very little will grow here as fast or as well as in the East. The beech is the standard European species, which was all I could find at the time. Even now beeches are not common in the nurseries, though one can run across the tri-color cultivar once in a while.
Plain old species or not, the tree is increasingly attracting the attention of neighbors and passersby. They sense that it is different and if I’m outside will comment on its beauty and ask what it is. I think it is the way the branches, especially the lower ones, spread outward, along with the lushness of the foliage. In the fall, they also notice the green-to-yellow-to-bronze leaf color sequence, partly because it’s one of the last trees to really light up the shortening days. I personally enjoy the classic smooth trunk, but that isn’t something that many folks see right away.
I’ve probably obsessed too much over this tree. It bothers me when I find a 2 ft. long branch on the ground, the result of squirrels jumping onto the tree from a much taller nearby silver maple. And it bothers me when a late frost in April nips a lot of the leaves, and they grow holey and deformed, such as has happened in the previous three springs (not yet, so far). When that happens, the tree’s growth is much less than in other years.
The neighborhood I live in consists of houses that are on the small side by today’s standards, but many lots are now being redeveloped. People want to build houses taking up much more of the land, and have two stories as well, so they end up with houses that are almost four times the size of the originals built in the 1920’s. My beech is far enough toward the street so that city regulations don’t allow a building there. However, that doesn’t mean the next owner of this property won’t destroy the tree. I think it is their legal right to do so. Whether it’s a moral right is another question. It’s my understanding that beech trees can easily live 200 years. That would mean having to deal with having a lot of different types of people having an effect on them…
Per your request, I estimate I live on the borderline between Zones 5 and 6. We in the hort community out here discuss and debate this issue frequently because there are a lot of very coveted things that can grow in 6 and not in 5. Zone denial is maybe what we have. The climate here is fairly different from the East, because of the aridity; we have to depend heavily on irrigation and the air is really dry. And little rainfall means it’s sunny a lot, and the sun is more potent at our altitude. Some plants would prefer an application of sunscreen.
Thanks again for putting together such a nice website, and if you have a chance, I’d love to know what kind of “energy bars” you’re eating!
Sonia
Hi Sonia. What a wonderful letter! Thanks! I thoroughly enjoyed reading that and LAUGHED OUT LOUD at the last line! Pecan Chocolate Chip Sandies are my current energy food. Your beech sounds wonderful. I totally appreciate your nurturing of it, and fretting over the future land owners. I wish there was a way to pass along our tree stories so that people would understand how deeply involved we have been in their upbringing. I would love to know if that old beech tree in my neighborhood had a story like yours. Cheers and thanks again for writing! — jules
Comment by Sonia — April 19, 2007 @ 1:00 am
Hi Julie, I just enjoyed seeing your Fall Slide Show again! I particularly like seeing the Oct. Glory, since I recently planted one
Do you also know “shrubs”? I need to replace something in the bed at the west side of my house (partial sun from mid-afternoon on).
I saw articles on “Burning Bush”, but I get the impression that it offends purists for being “invasive”. They could pop up anywhere, even ten miles from my home
Jeff in Linden, NJ
Comment by Jeff Beckman — April 21, 2007 @ 1:42 pm
Hi Jeff. Hmm. Considering my considerable failure at keeping arborvitae alive, and the fact that I’ve spent two years trying to figure out what to plant in their place, um, no, I don’t consider myself a shrub person. In fact, I’m considerably NOT a shrub person.
Got any ideas for what I can plant as a screen shrub underneath a moisture-hogging maple?
Comment by Jules — April 21, 2007 @ 2:59 pm
Hi Julie,
I don’t really know shrubs, in general. In my backyard, I have a strong reliance on Forsythias to screen out the neighbors and their above ground pool. They do the job. On the other side, the neighbors elevated deck looks down on me. I have wild Forsythias over there as well, although I’m thinking of putting in a Leyland Cypress on of these years. I guess a Hornbeam tree might work, although it’s kind of slow growing.
Some Internet people have suggested “Henry’s Garnet” sweetbriar to me instead of the
“Burning Bush”. I saw some interesting “Red Twigged Dogwoods” and “Shadow Serviceberries” in one of the Cranford places today, but the other two weren’t in yet. I’m not sure how I’d place them all, anyway.
Good luck with the screening!
Jeff in Linden
Comment by Jeff Beckman — April 21, 2007 @ 4:46 pm
Dear Julie,
The photos of your black cherry are great! The Brooklyn Botanic Garden is having a series this summer on big trees, and one of the trees were highlighting in our collection is a black cherry. I was wondering if you’d give us permission to use two of your photos for an informational sign we’ll post next to our tree. Please contact me if this is of interest to you.
Thanks much,
Medi
Comment by Medi — April 24, 2007 @ 3:17 pm
Hi, I live 30 miles north of Boston. I have a Sunset Maple. We planted it 6 years ago and it has done very well. This spring it only has red flowers on a few branches on 1 side. The rest has some small buds but no flowers at all. Last fall had full canopy. Is tree in trouble? Anything we can do? Thanks, John Lacey
Comment by John Lacey — April 28, 2007 @ 8:35 am
Hi John,
Thanks for writing. I would give this some time. Maybe the tree is just taking longer to wake up this year for some reason. Even though there are only a few flowers on one side, the fact that there are buds all over the tree tells me there’s a good chance it’ll be fine. Has anything changed in the area since last spring? New construction? New fertilizers on the lawn? Severe flooding? That’s going to be the first question an arborist would ask, I think. Hope this helps.
~jules
Comment by Jules — April 28, 2007 @ 9:10 am
Hi Julie,
On the screen issue, “Taxus x media” hicksii. Yew, Hicksii. Columnar. Grows in shade. Supposed to get tall, eventually.
Might work, I don’t know.
Jeff- doesn’t know shrubs
Comment by Jeff Beckman — April 29, 2007 @ 1:42 am
(From Barcelona, Spain) Needless to say that all your pics are awsome. I just came back from an exhibition in Montjuich and wanted to have some information about dogwood trees. Your blog is a great present. Thanks a million.
Comment by Montse Casanellas — May 1, 2007 @ 2:16 pm
Hi Julie, I live in Essex, England, about 40 miles from London. I found your site when looking for advice as to when I should prune my purple leaved plum tree - have you any ideas?
Your site is lovely, the pictures are stunning!
Many thanks, Sally.
Comment by Sally Dawes — May 2, 2007 @ 5:38 am
Hi Sally. You can prune purple leaf plum pretty much any time, though the a good time is in spring just after the flowers have fallen off. The reason this is a good time is so that you don’t compromise any flowers for next year, but if you don’t really care about that, the the absolute best time to prune these trees would be in fall, just after the leaves have all fallen off. Hope that helps.
~jules
Comment by Jules — May 2, 2007 @ 8:47 am
Hi Julie,
I’m on the verge of replacing one of my arbovitaes with something called a Nootka Pendulum Cypress. It’s a perfectly good arb, in the common arb-like position at the corner of the house. I suspect my landscaper thinks I’m going crazy for moving one evergreen for another one, particularly after having him plant two trees last month, when he’s usually just doing the grass. He may be right!
Jeff in Linden
Comment by Jeff Beckman — May 3, 2007 @ 4:58 pm
I write for Fruit Gardener Magazine and am a contributing editor. I also am author of The Jamlady Cookbook. I love some of your photos on your tree site. I also have an MFA in art and love photography and trees. If you would consider submitting some photographs of fruit trees, we might be able to use them in some of my columns…if you might be interested. The Calif. Rare Fruit Growers is a 501c3. Nobody is paid who writes or supplies photographs for the magazine, because Fruit Gardener and CRFG is non-profit. I am a member. As a member, we receive the journal and other benefits for $30 a year. You would not have to be a member, however, to submit work. Please let me know if you are interested. This year is the year of the mango.
If you would like to talk further, I would be happy to phone you to discuss this. Please send your phone number, if interested.
Sincerely,
Bev Alfeld, aka “Jamlady”
Comment by Bev Afeld — May 4, 2007 @ 10:46 pm
Julie
Thanks so much for your pics of your Sunset Maple. It had a big impact on what tree we chose as our “specimen tree” in our front yard. We bought a fairly large (and expensive, but well worth it, we hope!) Sunset Maple 3″ diameter , about 11′ tall from a nursery here in our area. It took two days to dig the hole and have a 6′ wide mulch ring around it. I love looking at your pics ( I have checked it out several times, it’s sooooo cool! ) to see what it will look like in years to come. We live in SW Michigan and Maples do very well on our rural property. We have a 200 year old Maple on our back property and it’s absolutely awesome. We can send a pic if you’d like. Anyway, thanks so much, your web page was the most informative of any we looked at and we’re glad your such a tree nut. Our new tree is absolutely wonderful and thanks again…
Rich
Comment by Rich — May 4, 2007 @ 11:18 pm
Thanks, Rich! Always nice to be called a nut!
Comment by Jules — May 4, 2007 @ 11:22 pm
I’m so guilty. I bought an Alaska Cedar from the nearby, big and popular nursery after being shown one by the smaller, friendly place (more of a fruit store) where I’m usually the only one on the lot and they always talk to me. I couldn’t pass up getting one much bigger (11 ft vs 7) for only $10 more. I feel like such a bad person though
Jeff in Linden
Comment by Jeff Beckman — May 8, 2007 @ 9:13 am
Hi Julie- I came across your website while searching for information about my purple plum tree. My front yard had this tree when I first moved here and I love it! I guess the plum seeds have allowed the tree to off shoot and grow in my front yard away from the original tree. To my despair, my fiance wants to move the offshoots to another location. They look fairly odd in the middle of the yard and are difficult to cut the grass around. We have since transplanted them to another location in the yard that needed some color. Is there anything I can do to prevent transplant shock? Or to ensure their survival? I have inserted fertilizer stakes and have been watering daily. The soil drains easily. It has only been 4 days since the move. Is there anything else I should be doing? Or something I should look for? Thanks so much!
Comment by Stacy in New Albany, Indiana — May 9, 2007 @ 6:49 pm
Hi Julie - I am back in the land of the living, op went really well, now I`m trying to fill in the days without going mad !!I thought you might like to read one of my favourite poems, the tree names are all the Maori names which are beautiful and lyrical and probably very hard for you to pronounce - but I do want to share this with you ..
THE CHILDREN OF TANE
Kahikatea, pohutukawa, kauri
The trees of the country that I love are rooted in my heart.
The flowers and the birds have their own seperate beauty,
But the trees,ah the children of Tane, they have a place apart.
Matai, and totara, hoheria, karaka,
Their names are as sweet as the notes the throats of tuis spill.
Their names are as strong as the surge of the surf on lonely beaches.
Like the murmur of earth`s own spirit their boughs speak
when all else is still.
Miro and rimu, puriri and rewarewa,
Crowned with their rose or their crimson, or golden with honey they stand.
I would intone their names like a chant for their strength and their beauty,
They, the flesh and the blood that cover the bones of the land.
I would intone their names like a chant of a high priest, a lover,
The children of Tane that hold a place that is sacred, apart.
The flowers and the birds have their own separate beauty,
But the trees, ah the trees, are forever rooted within my heart.
Una Auld
Tane, ( Tar-nay) was believed by the ancient Maori to have fished the islands of NZ up from the Pacific ocean, he was a very strong man/God who amoung other amazing feats, clothed the land in the forest and birds.
I hope you enjoyed a glimpse of another land, so far from yours ..
Cheers my friend
Marcia
Comment by Marcia — May 9, 2007 @ 10:09 pm
Hi Julie,
As I’ve noted, I had planted an October Glory Maple, along with a European Hornbeam this Spring. The maple was placed about 20 feet from my front window, at the time hoping to shade the house with its’ Southern exposure. Now, my impression when viewing it from far down the road is that it’s a little too close to the house. I’d like to move have it moved 10 feet further away, where I think it will look more “bold” at a distance. It isn’t really a pressing issue though, as it still looks good. So, what I’m wondering is, should I suggest that my landscaper do this now, or bring it up next March. Is it too late in the season? Of course, it would mess up the lawn, but I don’t care.
BTW, I love the new Euro hornbeam. It’s a terrific screen of the road with nice dense leaves. I might get another next year for more screening. There’s always plenty of screening needs
Comment by Jeff Beckman — May 11, 2007 @ 12:20 pm
Dear Julie,
Hello. I live in Smithtown, NY(Long Island). We transplanted a Red Japanese Maple,the low growing bush kind, almost 3 yaers ago. It survived the transplant but the every year since the leaves are have turned green. Have you ever heard of this happening? Is it the soil? Is there something I can do to make the leaves red again?
Thank you for your help.
Sandy
Comment by Sandy — May 12, 2007 @ 3:20 pm
dear Julie, I have’nt taken the time to read you’r blog page ! but i will when i’m unable to work in the our western PA Yard because of rain. We have two Bradford Pears planted four years ago, although we have good folidge we have yet to see any blossoms, could you please give us some guidence as to what we need to do so we have these lovely things next year to look forward to. Thank you for your time, Sue Smith
Comment by sue smith — May 13, 2007 @ 8:15 am
HI JULIE I HAVE A QUESTION FOR YOU THAT I’M HOPING YOU CAN ANSWER-
CAN YOU EAT THE FRUIT FROM A PURPLE LEAF PLUM TREE?
Comment by CATHERINE — May 18, 2007 @ 9:59 am
We have a japanese red maple tree. And its half dead and half alive. We think it is the disease Anthracnose. We want to know how to save the tree. Last year it bloomed and this year it has not.
Comment by Robin & Mitch — May 23, 2007 @ 6:46 pm
Hi. I’m really enjoying your blog! Trees are so cool
I’m writing about Linden trees. I’m looking for a nice shade tree for the NW side of my house, to shade the patio in the summer. The nursery guy suggested a Linden tree when I said I wanted something interesting, but he mentioned that they grow slowly. I’d been thinking about doing something else instead, but the success you’ve had with yours is making me change my mind again. I’m wondering how far from the house you’d recommend? We’re in Connecticut (zone 5 or 6).
Also, I think Staghorn Sumac is native. I don’t know if it’s “aggressive” but it’s not technically invasive. I love how it looks, too.
Comment by Lizf — May 24, 2007 @ 8:28 pm
Hi Liz,
Regarding the linden, I guess it could depend on the cultivar as to how fast it grows. Mine has grown a lot faster than I thought it would. Just remember, when it comes to trees, faster is necessarily better. The slower growing trees are the stronger ones. I love my linden tree. The yellow flowers throughout June are quite interesting. (Though some people think it’s a nuisance to have to rake in July.)
Comment by Jules — May 25, 2007 @ 12:40 am
Hi Julie-I am a resident of Illinois and I was researching the web for tree information to help me decide on the replacement of a 50 ft ash treee that became diseased. A very sad story…..my beautiful shaded yard is now much like a “rolling plain”. I appreciated the information on your website (how is the Linden doing-thinking of maybe planting one of my own). I did really want to tell you that ALL your photos are beautiful and you are one talented woman! Thanks again for the enjoyment of your website! Pam Young
Comment by Pam Young — May 30, 2007 @ 1:48 pm
Hi Julie,
I live in a suburb about an hour west of Chicago. I have been searching for the names of the bright, bold purple trees I fall in love with in the spring. It took a long time, but I believe they are redbuds. I am considering a couple of them for the front corners of my house. I have been doing some research on the net about them because I want to make sure I get the ones with the vivid purple spring flowers that seem to glow, not the pink ones. Is the Forest Pansy the same tree as the Eastern Redbud, or are they different?
Thanks, Julie (too!)
Comment by Julie — May 30, 2007 @ 7:55 pm
Hi Pam,
Just wanted to let you know my linden seems fine, though it still has girdling roots that need to be taken care of. Can’t seem to get an arborist out here. Ugh!
Hi Julie,
I do believe the tree of which you speak is a forest pansy redbud. It is a cultivar of the eastern species, I think I’m saying that right.
Comment by Jules — May 30, 2007 @ 8:36 pm
I have three red sunset maples, two the builder planted when we moved in 2.5 years ago and I planted the third last May. They were all 2.5-3 inch trees.
We live in Kansas City and had a late freeze in March. After the freeze the leaves have not come back on the top couple of feet of the tree. This was one of the trees that that the builder planted 2.5 years ago.
The red sunset maple that I planted last May, was doing fine through out the summer and never dropped its leaves in the winter and they have not come back this spring. I don’t have a warranty and may not have watered it enough over the summer. Any thoughts.
The third one is doing great. Thanks.
Comment by Grant Reves — May 31, 2007 @ 4:44 pm
Hi Julie,
How did you water your October Glory Red Maple in the early years? I’ve gotten contradictory advice for my new one (about 12-15 feet tall).
The guy at the nursery said to let a hose slowly drip on it for about an hour once per week. My landscaper said to have a hose (without nozzle) set on a medium flow and water it three times a week for about a minute. I’ve been setting the hose at a rate that doesn’t disrupt the mulch, and holding it around the root bed for 10 minutes once per week. It seems to get fairly drenched. I don’t want to water it too much though and “kill it with kindness” as the nursery guy said.
Thanks for your help.
Jeff in Linden
Comment by Jeff Beckman — June 1, 2007 @ 12:33 pm
Hi Julie, Bradley & Gregory
I have just noticed my Acer Liquidamber that I planted in my garden in spring has brown spots all over alot of its leaves.
I love trees but am a novice and have no idea what this is or what to do. The tree stands with two other maples and a cherry so are they safe and what should I do?
I live in Northampton UK, please, please help!!!
Thanks you very much
Jodie Smith
Comment by Jodie Smith — June 5, 2007 @ 1:28 pm
Hi Julie I am from Central New York. my youngest son is napping so I have little time to enjoy the internet and use it to its potential. I have a Royal Red Maple Planted on September 13th 2005. I know very little about trees but I would say the tree was probably about 5-6 yrs old when it was planted. last spring we didnt have any concerns with it. This spring there are little to no leaves on it. It is a memorial tree planted on my sons first birthday and now Im afraid it wont see his third. Any ideas on what to do would be greatly appreciated.
thank you
Erin Gray
Comment by Erin — June 7, 2007 @ 9:29 am
Hi Grant,
Regarding your red sunset trees, the first one with the leaves gone at the top — I wouldn’t worry too much about that one. Just make sure you water it this summer using the slow soak method. The second one that never lost its leaves in winter and hasn’t sprouted anything yet this spring sounds like a goner to me. You might call the builder because there’s always the chance they’ll replace it. The third one, the one that’s doing great, YAY!
Comment by Jules — June 7, 2007 @ 3:02 pm
Hi Jodie,
I’m really not sure what’s going on with your Acer Liquidamber. You might try posting your question at the tree forums at TreeHelp.com
Comment by Jules — June 7, 2007 @ 3:04 pm
Hi Erin,
Hmm, not sure what to say about your royal red maple. Can you send me a picture? Has anything changed around the tree in the last year? Any digging or construction? Any new pesticides being applied on the lawn or fertilizers? Did it get proper water last summer and fall? See any bugs? Enjoy your son’s nap time. It won’t last forever!
Comment by Jules — June 7, 2007 @ 3:07 pm
We just had to take down a failing 30-year-old Norway maple with girdled roots. Half the tree had died and it was only a few feet from the house. It used to shade our whole backyard. Now our whole family feels down because the backyard has been transformed from into a desert plain. Can you recommend some fast-growing trees that might add a little bit of shade by end of summer? We have to plant within the next week or two. We live in PA.
Comment by Jennifer Schu — June 8, 2007 @ 12:16 am
Julie,
I recently planted 2 Greenspire Lindens in Troy, Illinois. I’ve noticed that the trees have leaves that are yellowing. Have the trees received too much water? Right after they were planted, we had a lot of rain. I have not over watered them.
Oh by the way, I’m not refering to the little yellow flowers, but the actual leaves.
Any advice would be welcome.
Ed
Comment by Ed Martinez — June 11, 2007 @ 9:03 pm
Hi Julie,
I am having the same problem as Ed above. I had a Linden (not sure if it’s a little leaf or greenspire, etc.) but the leaves look wilted from a distance, but fairly normal up close. Several are starting to die, become yellow, but there are little buds sprouting in many places. One small branch died after being hit by a larger branch that broke off in a storm. The leaves on the small dying branch turned brown rather than yellow. When you planted your Linden could you differentiate between overwatering versus underwatering? I live in northern Illinois a bit NW of Chicago.
Thanks, John
Comment by John — June 15, 2007 @ 9:43 am
Hi Julie,
Perhaps you would know if it is normal for my maple tree to start turning red (n June). I live in the far northern suburbs of Chicago. It’s a fairly young tree (4″ dia.) and for the two years it’s been with me it would be green this time of the year. I’m afraid it’s dying. Do you have any answers.
Thank you,
Carol
Hi Carol, Julie here — A tree that changes to fall color this early is clearly stressed about something. Has there been any changes in the environment in the last year? Any digging? Construction? Bugs? Major pruning?
Comment by carol melchiorre — June 23, 2007 @ 6:28 pm
Hi Julie (and all),
I’ve been planting several trees and shrubs this year, and one could say that I now have enough.
Still, a few weeks ago, I saw this tree in Clark during a run. It has a terrific exfoliating bark in a clump of three and nice leaf canopy. I’m pretty sure it’s a River Birch, but not one of the common type. I would guess either “Heritage” or “Dura-Heat”. I’ve walked around all of the Cranford nurseries and while they’re loaded with river birch trees, they just aren’t the same. Most of them look like bushes with sparse leaves. So, I’m thinking of ordering from Nursery Hills and planting a 4 footer. Have you (or others) had much success by this route? Is there a nursery in Central NJ that’s a good source for less common species.
I’ve got to have that tree!
Thanks a lot!
Jeff
Hi Jeff — Julie here. My nursery days are pretty much over now that I have no more space to plant anything, so I’m not sure if there’s a good one around anymore. As far as ordering from a catalog though, I LOVE LOVE LOVE Forest Farm. Good luck. Keep me posted!
Comment by Jeff Beckman — June 24, 2007 @ 6:29 pm
I have a purple leaf plum tree and it is covered with the fungus looking bugs. You talk about an oil spray to kill them. Where/how can I get it and how do I treat the tree with it. It is full bloom and is dying FAST!!!!! Thanks!!!
Lisa
Hi Lisa — Julie here. Any progress? Sorry it took me so long to respond. As for my oil spray, it’s a homemade concoction. Coupla drops of cooking oil, with a coupla drops of detergent mixed in a big water can sprayed all over every surface of the tree. Not sure if that will help your situation though. Have you figured out what it is yet?
Comment by lisa — June 25, 2007 @ 12:51 am
Hi Julie & Family, Great Pictures on your October Glory! It motivated me to plant one about 15ft from the back of my home. My I ask how the surface roots are doing? Also do you have any issues with the “helicopters” creating more maples? Thanks so much! Tom
Hi Tom — Julie here. Surface roots extend to the edge of the dripline now, getting larger every year. The spread of this tree is now at least 10 feet out from the trunk. You might regret planting yours so close to the house in about 10 years or so. Keep up the pruning though, and it might not be so bad. Good luck!
Comment by Tom W. — June 25, 2007 @ 7:30 am
Julie, What an amazing website, i love the photo of the oaks avenue, the moss etc amazing.
My love of trees recently lead me to creating a large African Baobab for a Castle’s garden out of 51 km of wire! see my website for a picture.
Very best Wishes from Kent, England
Will Jordan
Whoa Will, Julie here — that’s one cool upside down tree! Love the story on the BBC. Thanks for commenting! Cheers!
Comment by Will Jordan — June 28, 2007 @ 12:48 pm
Hi,
I was looking at your journal on the sunset maple and it says the planting trunk size was 1.5″ with the 7 year update being 19″. Is this the circumference or the diameter? Either way, that’s one heck of a growth spurt. I just planted one that is 2.75″ in diameter / roughly 9″ circumference and was wondering what to expect 7 years from now.
Thanks.
Hi Tom. Julie here. Well, here’s how I measure my tree trunks — I take a piece of twine and wrap it around the trunk at about chest high, then measure the length of the twine. Since I measure the same way on all my trees it seems like a pretty good way to go. I think that’s called circumference — when you measure all the way around. Right? Anyway, yeah, that tree has grown a phenomenal amount, with large roots in the yard to prove it and very little grass left. I love shade. Good thing I love mud too.
Comment by Tom — June 28, 2007 @ 1:23 pm
Hi Julie
Thank you for such detailed information and the pictures of the sunset maple. I came across your site after this tree was given to us shortly after moving into our new home. The tree was planted in October 2006 in our back yard. The tree is about 15 ft. plus in height. The question I have is while the tree now looks somewhat scraggly, will the branches fill in? There are some branches that are bare except for some patches of leaves here and there. There were several dead branches that I cut off. We are seeing new growth. I look forward to your comment. Thanks
Paul - Georgetown, Ontario, Canada
Comment by Paul — July 5, 2007 @ 4:59 pm
Hi Paul,
I think that tree just needs more time to get established. I’d say just make sure it gets the proper amount of water, and prune off any dead branches, then just wait and see. By “proper amount of water,” I would dig down about 6 inches. If the soil is moist at depth, then it’s got enough water. If it’s dry, then give the tree a SLOW soak — the kind of trickle water technique that takes several hours. The water is barely coming out of the hose using this technique. Good luck!
Comment by Jules — July 5, 2007 @ 10:04 pm
Hi Julie,
I love your website and have a question. Last year I had landscapers plant 2 October Glory Maple trees which are about 30′ in height.
This summer I have noticed the leaves on the outer branches are turning pale, yellow and some cases a pale red, almost light orange. The tree actually looks like it’s changing color for fall!
Is this tree getting too much water? Or is it not getting enough water? Ahhhh! Is it just under stress from the hot weather? That’s why I need help! In Tennessee where I live we are about 12 inches below the normal rainfall. I have watered it from the garden hose about once every 10 days. If I should be using a soaker hose, could you explain the best way to use them?
I would appreciate any advice you can give me.
I love trees and have planted over 26 in my yard so far. I probably tend to over care for them.
Thank you for your time.
Kind regards,
Katherine
Johnson City, TN
Comment by Katherine — July 6, 2007 @ 8:19 am
Hi Katherine,
Sounds like stress. Here’s how I used to water my trees when they were newly transplanted: (And by “newly transplanted,” I mean in the first 5 years, for as long as the tree still seemed like it wasn’t fully established.) Think of the rootball as a clock face. Turn the hose on a trickle — water barely coming out more than a drip. Put the hose at the root area about a foot or two (depending on how big the rootball is) out from the trunk at “12:00″ on the clock face. Let it stay there for 45 minutes or so, then go out and move it to the opposite side of the tree (6:00) and let it run for 45 minutes or so. Then move it to 3:00 and do the same, then 9:00. Dig down about 6 inches with one finger. If the soil is moist at 6 inches depth, that’s enough water. If it’s still dry, keep moving the hose around on a trickle until it’s moist at 6 inches. Once it’s moist there, wait to water again when it’s dry at that depth. (Dig at a different place.)
I would think that in your current drought situation, once every 10 days for those big trees isn’t enough. If it were me, I’d probably be slow soaking those trees every three or four days.
You can also save waste water from all sorts of little tasks in the house, and put it in buckets or jars. Use a big Home Depot bucket with a tiny hole drilled in the side at the bottom for the slow soak method.
One summer I saved all the waste water every time I thought about it and by the end of the summer I had about 50 buckets worth of water. It’s amazing how much water we waste every day.
Your trees could also be stressed about something else. 30′ is a big tree. I would be concerned that the planters didn’t loosen the root ball enough, or that they didn’t dig the hole wide enough, or that they buried the tree too deep, or not deep enough. Make sure the burlap was loosened at the top of the rootflare.
Hope this helps.
Good luck!
Comment by Jules — July 6, 2007 @ 9:10 am
Hi Julie, I looked at the Forest Farms site after you recommended it, and ordered a little European Hornbeam. It had to be sent by air mail, so became somewhat more expensive, but is a nice looking 2 foot tree right now. I had also ordered an American Hornbeam from Nature Hills. This was a different story. The thing was nothing but a stick (no leaves at all!) wrapped on a stake with “bare roots” covered with some sort of insulation. Forest Farms said to “wait a few days to let the tree slowly get used to sun before planting”. Nature Hills said to plant immediately. Anyway, this is mostly just experimentation, but they are both planted in my back yard, hopefully to be moved to the front to screen ugliness in the future. I can’t help thinking that Nature Hills has gyped me though. Is it common to ship a bald stick? I’m having trouble getting excited about that one
Comment by Jeff Beckman — July 7, 2007 @ 5:23 pm
Hey Jeff,
My Royal Red maple was a bald stick. Looks like a tree now!
Comment by Jules — July 7, 2007 @ 6:59 pm
Thanks Julie, That’s somewhat encouraging. Your Royal Red Maple stick looks a lot more substantial than the thing they sold me though.
Mine needs the stake just to be visible.
I’ll report back on it in 15 years
Jeff- in Linden
Comment by Jeff Beckman — July 8, 2007 @ 4:34 pm
Hi I loved your article. I have been diagonised for cancer and thru my family and friends got invovled in gardening. I have two dying trees in the backyard of my new home. I have climbing weeds and lady bug on it, one of the tree is a pear tree, I would like to treat this tress. Please give me your comments at sandyrolt@hotmail.com
Thank you
Sandra
Comment by Sandra — July 10, 2007 @ 12:58 pm
Hi Sandra,
So sorry to hear about your illness. I do hope the gardening helps nurture your soul as growing trees does mine. The lady bugs may be searching for aphids — that’s usually the case. Look and see if there’s little tiny white bugs on the tree, especially the bottoms of the leaves. Might be some tiny white webs too. The lady bugs eat the aphids, so that’s a GOOD thing! People pay lots of money to buy ladybugs to treat aphids! As for the weeds, I’m rather a nature lover, so if it were me, I’d just pull them up. Or, you can put down 6 layers of plain newspaper (no glossy stuff), then soak the newspapers really good, then put mulch down on top of that. That usually stops weeds for about a year. Good luck. Hope this helps!
Comment by Jules — July 10, 2007 @ 2:00 pm
My question is concerning the Forest Pansy Redbud. I just bought one and a friend told me to watch over the winter as this tree may uproot due to wind. How large is this tree root growth or high large can I anticipate it growing? It is close to my house, so I did not want a large root base, but I want it to withstand the winter. I have it steaked up now. It is such a lovely tree. Thank-you. Debi By the way, your pics are beautiful!!
Comment by Debi — July 16, 2007 @ 11:36 am
Debi, there’s a lot of questions in here! I have never heard that redbuds uproot because of wind any more than any other shallow-rooted tree might. I wouldn’t worry about that unless you live in a particularly windy place. By “close to my house” how close do you mean? In general, this size tree should be planted at least 10 feet away from your house, though I would go further than that, more like 15. A redbd tree generally grows to about 30 feet tall. They are short-lived mainly because they are so susceptible to trunk damage and branch breakage from things like ice storms and, um, wind. Good luck with your new tree! Take the stakes off next spring, ok?
Comment by Jules — July 19, 2007 @ 10:34 am
Hello Julie,
First visit to your site, enjoyed it! I recently started researching shade trees after learning about a company called Shade Planning LLC. I sell homes in new home communites in the Dallas area… that needless to say are desperately lacking trees…much less shade. The website is www.myspace.com/fastestgrowingtrees. Let me know what you think…
Tara
Dallas, TX
Comment by Tara — July 22, 2007 @ 12:52 pm
Hey there Julie Bradley and Gregory!
What a great site to stumble across as
I “surf the web” endlessly about trees.
3 years ago…desperate to get out of L.A. on the weekends and have some space, we bought a 3 acre property in Bear Valley Springs outside Tehachapi.
BVS sits at around 4,300 feet at valley
level and in the surrounding mountains tops at around 7,000 feet.
Our place sits slightly above the valley floor and with 3 acres of previously undeveloped property we’ve had a field day putting in trees.
Red Maple, Red Oak, Sugar Maple, Norway Maple, Poplar, Chanticleer,
Liquid Amber, Raywood Ash, Purple Ash, Austrian Pines and Colorado Blue Spruce, Sycamore, along with an orchard
of Plum, Cherry, Apple and Peach….oh…and grapevines too.
What caught my interest on your blog was exasperation with your Bradford Pear trees.
We lined our driveway with 40 Bradfords
and were well aware of the problems that
can accompany these trees, particularly in windy and snowy areas…not to mention the “Fire Blight” which can pose problems.
Did you know that there has been a new
Bradford Pear tree developed? It is a much stronger tree less prone to breakage and Fire blight?
I believe it’s official name is “New Hybrid Bradford Flowering Pear Tree”.
This was the tree we chose to line the driveway with. I guess we’ll hold our breath and hope for the best.
Love your shots and your obvious affection for trees. I find I’ve become almost obsessive about pampering all of these young trees until they get established.
You guys take care!
Tony
Bear Valley Springs
California
Hi Tony — Julie here — Thanks for the nice letter! I wish you luck and good weather for your trees! I hadn’t heard of a new “improved” pear tree, and even if there was such a thing, I’d still avoid it just because there are already too many of them. Plus, any new variety would have to not be invasive for it to be a “good” tree in my book. Of course, I say all this while having three pear trees in my yard. I really should just cut them down or keep my mouth shut. I’m such a hypocrit. (Can’t help it. I LOVE shade and the squirrels love my pear trees. I can’t seem to make myself call George the tree guy just yet.)
Comment by Tony — July 30, 2007 @ 3:42 pm
Julie,
Love your site! My wife and I would like to plant arborvitae along a lot line with a cedar fence that is slowly rotting away about (4) sections. We live in Massachusetts- so they would have to be hearty. There are some oak trees on our side of the fence; we would plant them on the other side. Our neighbors have (5) that have done extremely well in similar soil. What kind, plant date, spacing would you suggest. Also, what kind of care will they require. Thanks!
Hi Chris — Julie here — Hmm, not sure of how much space you’re talking about, and the soil and growing conditions. Arbs need LOTS of sun and lots of space and lots of moisture and nutrients to survive. Sounds to me like they might have competition for all of the above. The ones that I planted (the emerald greens) are all beginning to die now. The ones closest to the maple are gone. The only ones doing well are the ones in full sun for at least 5 hours a day, and no nearby big trees. I suggest planting in early fall, as long as you can be sure to water using the slow soak method on especially hot days, or when the trees need moisture. Be aware the deer love arbs, so if you’re planting where deer are around, your arbs will be like waving a Hershey bar in front of Bradley! Good luck!
Comment by Chris — July 31, 2007 @ 8:21 pm
Hope you can give me some advice. I have a beautiful japanese red maple tree for 30+ years. This year the trunk have a split in it about 4 feet long (from about 6 inches above ground and up) don’t want to lose this tree but don’t know what to do.
Hi Barbara — Julie here — Without more info, I’m afraid I can’t help. I suggest you call an arborist on this one. Good luck!
Comment by Barbara Hilliard — August 1, 2007 @ 2:12 pm
Hi, I was looking at the progressive pictures of your Greenspire Linden and I was curious in the pics what sort of tree is pictured in front of the linden that has such brilliant yellow color. Thanks.
Joe
Hi Joe — Julie here — The yellow tree in front of the Linden is one of my Armstrong maples. I really should go out and take new pictures of those. They are getting really big this summer!
Comment by Joe Ryan — August 5, 2007 @ 1:03 am
Hi,
I really enjoy your website. So informative.
I bought two Tri-colored Beech Trees in the late spring. I planted them both. One is in direct sunlight all day and the other is in sunlight about half the day and shade half the day. The one in the sun has had its leaves all dried up and brown, while the other is doing better. The one that is doing better had turned a mauve color. Should I transplant the one that gets the sun all day? AND when is a good time to transplant? I live in southern Vt. These trees are about 3 1/2 feeet tall.
Thanks for any help I can get on this, Terry
Hi Terry — Jules here — I think beech trees do better as an understory tree (partial shade). If it’s not dead, I might think about moving the one that isn’t doing so well. But keep in mind that if it’s not dead, moving it will add even more stress than it already has. Maybe there’s some other problem? Can you give us any more info?
Comment by Terry — August 12, 2007 @ 7:20 am
Hi, I live in Illinois and have a growing flowering plum tree (purple leaves) that seems to be getting eaten by some type of beetle. The top leaves have holes in them and I see little beetles that have an irridecent color to them. 1) What can I do to remove these bugs so they don’t kill my tree and 2) I’m not really good with growing things, but I don’t want this tree to die. The tree is very top heavy… how should I prun it? Thanks very much. Please email me soon so my tree doesn’t die. Linda
Hi Linda — Jules here — I’m not sure about your beetle problem (but I found some pretty irridescent beetle earrings on eBay!). Hmm, I might think about spraying the tree with a mixture of detergent, oil and water, and washing off the leaves, both sides. I would do that after pruning it to alleviate the top-heavy problem. You can prune it anytime. Sooner the better I say. My plum tree has ALWAYS been a problem so my best advice to you is to NOT spend too much time messing with this tree unless you really LOVE it. If you don’t LOVE it, then put yourself out of the misery of dealing with the thing and plant a nice beech.
Comment by Linda — August 12, 2007 @ 8:12 am
Hi again,
I really think the problem is the full all day sun, as the other tree in half day shade is doing ok. I guess the question is, can I move it now? Or should I wait till the fall season and try?
Thanks, Terry
Hi Terry — Jules here — well, the question is, if the leaves are dried up and brown, um, is it still alive? If it IS alive, then I would just continue to water it on a VERY slow soak once a week, and then move it in fall. Fall is always the best time for transplant anyway. Gives the tree roots some time to get established in their new home, but there’s not going to be as much heat stress, and there’s usually more moisture available. Hope this helps.
Comment by Terry — August 13, 2007 @ 6:11 am
Hi Julie!
It’s been a while, so I wanted to drop by and ask how you’re doing.
In the past months I haven’t seen any photos displaying the
growth of your trees, and was wondering what happened.
You are an excellent photographer, and by now you
are certainly no beginner in caring for trees. It would be fantastic
if you put up some new photos on preferably all your trees and
return to the old routine of continuing to record their growths
from those unique spots you’ve been doing the photographing
from for all these years! Please don’t stop now!
One of your older fans from Toronto, ON.
Hi Frank — Jules here — You’re making me feel SO GUILTY! Everyday I wake up thinking TODAY I’m going to do some new tree pictures and a blog post about this tree or that tree. I’m so behind I don’t know where to start! Then I get started on work and the hobby just gets pushed and pushed away. I also feel bad about not getting to spend as much time with Bradley and Gregory as I used to. But we all knew that starting a business would be a time hog, and I LOVE my photography business! I had a shoot yesterday with a family and it was SO much fun! And I had two on Saturday and both of those were great too. My face hurts from smiling so much! And when I got home, Mike had taken the kids to the pool and so they were all happy too. (And then Gregory got an ear infection. Ugh. Life goes on.) Anyway, I really appreciate your letter, Frank, and I promise I will get some tree pictures up soon to update you on the little beech and the linden, which is huge now, and the Armstrong maple by the street which is actually shading the driveway now (yay) and the dying arborvitae under the big maple. Oh, and here’s some good news — my dogwood looks GREAT this year! I haven’t seen ANY signs of anthracnose all summer long! Can you believe it? Ok, I’m getting my camera out — just as soon as I 1)Go take a shower 2)Call Jennifer and Doreen about their shoots last month 3)Get Beth’s shoot edited before she leaves for Japan 4)Get some pictures up of Katie’s newborn 5)Put drops in Gregory’s ear 6)Write a blog post about how Bradley cleaned off my desk and left me a fantastic letter 5)Oh yeah, I should probably eat something 7)And I gotta be on a train at 5:25 cuz I gotta go to work in the city tonight. I’m sure I left out 45 steps. I’ll get to it, Frank, I PROMISE! Thank you SO much for your letter. It’s SO nice to know you care enough to take the time to write!
Comment by Frank — August 13, 2007 @ 5:25 pm
Julie: I just stumbled upon your site today, and I love it. We live in Central Jersey as well and moved into our house 2 years ago. I cannot recognize the trees I have in my yard, but would love your comments on what would work for a showy tree behind a driveway (visible from the road). My husband insists on spectacular fall color and I like spring flowers. It is a little difficult to chose since we are fitting into an existing landscpe insteand of designing one. We get a lot of sun (facing SE) and would like some shade as well. Thanks much.
Hi Mona — Jules here — It’s hard to find a good quality shade tree that also has a nice showy flower and good fall color too. People (myself included) have tended to choose the flowering pear trees to fit that bill, and now we’re regretting it.) If I were starting all over again now, I would not choose a flowering pear tree at all. In fact, I would just dump the whole “showy flower” idea and plant some nice bulbs in the yard. Because I LOVE fall color and would choose a strong, sturdy tree with great fall color over most any flowering tree. Dogwoods are nice, but the showiest ones are prone to diseases around here. Serviceberries don’t get big enough to be a great shade tree. So, if it were me, I’d just get a nice pretty sugar maple or a slow-growing beech. It took me a long time, but I’ve finally figured out that it’s not so much the shade I love as it is watching the tree grow and change.
Comment by Mona Nair — August 20, 2007 @ 8:03 pm
Hi Julie and fellow tree fans,
Ok, I’m afraid this is a lengthy post, but here goes
This Spring, with the help of my landscaper and the friendly nursery people in Cranford, I got busy planting trees. I had taken out a huge pine the year before that obliterated all view of the center of the house. Things were kind of barren though afterwards, baking in the Southern exposure.
Anyway, the new centerpiece was an October Glory Red Maple, planted about 20 feet from the house (I just walked off 25 feet of my size nine shoes:)
It looks nice from the front window, and I like to plop down under it when I come stumbling in from my runs. The thing is, looking at it from all directions, I perceive a problem..PERSPECTIVE.. The depth of the front yard is about 50 feet from the house to the street. The house is positioned at a corner, such that it is visible from about 200 feet driving up the road. So, the problem is, the October Glory appears from the road to be “cowering” right up against the house. I feel I need to transplant it to 27-30 feet from the house, in order to fix the view.. to make the tree look bolder. I also think I need to squeeze another tree in between the house and the maple, but a little off-center. Some sort of nice little tree which wouldn’t look funny behind the maple and would have some “screening” characteristics (I don’t want to see the neighbors house across the street too prominently), along with some decorative value.
The maple would be “out there” to look prominent to the head on traffic, but I need something else to screen from the sides. Plenty of sun. Any ideas?
Hope I made sense, and thanks for listening
Jeff
Hi Jeff — Jules here — Yeah, you know, I regret planting my linden so close to the front of my house for pretty much the same reasons you are describing. Now that it’s been here 10 years, it’s too big. I remember thinking 10 years ago after we planted it, as you are doing now, “I really ought to move that out further to the street to balance out the look of the house with what will eventually be a big tree.” But I didn’t move it. I wish I did. Move yours. Plus, balance discussion aside, an October Glory is TOO BIG OF A TREE to be planted 20 feet from the house. Trust me on that one. Yeah, move it to at LEAST 30 feet from the house. A good smaller tree to balance the maple might be a nice tri-color beech, a Japanese red maple or a serviceberry.
Comment by Jeff of Linden — August 31, 2007 @ 5:47 pm
Thanks Jules, That helps confirm things for me. I need to be positive of what I want, or my landscaper push me away from it
I’ve actually started to consider moving it even further, maybe to within six-eight feet of the street. How close to the street would it be safe to plant an October Glory? There aren’t any power line issues.
Comment by Jeff of Linden — September 3, 2007 @ 4:23 pm
Great tree website! I stumbled across it while looking for info on arbs. I’m considering one in my front yard. Anyway, I haven’t read through all the postings, but I have two things I’d like to add, even if you’ve already gotten comments at some point in the past. Eastern hemlock and yews are evergreens that tolerate shade. Bone meal isn’t for acidity. It actually helps with blooming. At the garden shop where I used to work, we recommended it when planting bulbs, and anything else that would be around awhile. It is slow to work, so it doesn’t help annual flowers much. By the way, I live and garden in Franklin, Indiana which is Zone 5.
Comment by Jessica — September 12, 2007 @ 2:13 pm
Jules, They seem to be pushing “Cleveland-select” pears this year. “Aristocrat” was last year
I’m also looking at Cornus Florida “Cherokee Princess” dogwoods as something to plant between that spot I mentioned between the October Glory (once I move it) and the house. I like my Kousa dogwood in the side yard, but these seem like bigger trees. The Kousa has great leaves though.
Basically, looking for white flowers in April.
Is there anything else that might be better?
Thanks!
Jeff
Hey Jeff — Jules here — serviceberry is a nice small tree, hardy wood, with white flowers. I would consider that.
Comment by Jeff - from Linden — September 17, 2007 @ 5:37 pm
Thanks Jules,
Last Spring, I remember seeing little shrubs at the big place in Cranford that were called Serviceberries. They were only about a foot tall. I’ll keep an eye out for anything more like a tree though.
Thanks again,
Jeff
Comment by Jeff - from Linden — September 18, 2007 @ 12:11 pm
Julie,
We planted an Autumn Blaze Maple tree about 5 years ago about 4 feet from our cement driveway. I’ve noticed several “above ground” roots growing toward (and under) the driveway, plus they’re heading toward the neighbor’s house. One of our neighbors told us to remove the tree now, as it is known to break into water lines of homes and damage them. Can you tell me if this is true? I really love the tree, and the shade it provides, but I want to remove it now before it gets more costly to remove if it may break into a water line or possibly lift/break my driveway. Any suggestions would be most appreciated.
Bryan - Lewisville Texas
Hi Bryan — Julie here — Tree roots can most definately lift driveways, but red maple roots don’t really go after water lines. It’s a surface-root tree, meaning the roots spread out along the surface of the ground to find water. How close is the tree to the neighbor’s house? As long as the trunk is a good 30 feet from the house, I wouldn’t cut it down just because the neighbor is afraid the tree will break in. That’s really kind of ridiculous. That said, I’m not an expert, so don’t take my word for it. If you love the tree and the shade it provides, then my suggestion is call an arborist for expert advice.
Comment by Bryan — September 20, 2007 @ 2:25 pm
Thanks for the feedback on my red maple tree root question. I would guess that the trunk of this tree is probably about 10 feet away from my neighbor’s house. I trim it as necessary to make sure none of the limbs get too close to their house. I actually think that they like the tree more then I do, so neither of us want to remove this tree if it isn’t necessary. If it should be 30 feet away as you recommend however, then I may still have an issue with this tree. How would a person go about finding an “arborist” in the area? Would they be listed as such in the yellow pages?
Bryan - Lewisville Texas
Hi Bryan — Julie here — Click here to find a certified arborist. But yeah, 10 feet from the house is really close for a red maple — not because of roots, but more because of how big this tree is going to eventually get. Can you move the tree?
Comment by Bryan — September 21, 2007 @ 9:02 am
Julie -
Thanks for the link! It gave me several arborist to choose from in my area.
As far as moving the tree, I’m not sure. Maybe the arborist can advise me on that. It was planted about 5 years ago, so I’m not sure if it can be moved, or if it can, what the costs would be.
I’ll just call an expert and see what the can tell me.
Thanks for all the info. You’re great!!!!
Bryan - Lewisville Texas
Comment by Bryan — September 21, 2007 @ 11:39 am
Hi Julie, Great website and great passion you have. I have a question about picking the right tree. I cut lawns and one of my customers, a widow, would like to plant a tree in her front. I took out a old dead one for her in the beginning of the year. Anyways, she lives in Nutley, NJ and says she likes the Red Maple. From what I see I like the one’s that change colors. Which one’s do you recommend looking into. THanks. You can email me cause I’m sure I’ll have more quetions if you don’t mind. Otherwise, how many Red Maple tree’s are they? Nothing thats going to grow over 50 feet I think. THANK YOU! Peter
Hi Peter — Julie here — there are dozens of red maples. My personal fave is October Glory red maple or Red Sunset because the red fall color is relatively consistently red. But keep in mind that red maples tend to have surface roots — might make mowing difficult in a few years. Make sure the nursery gives you a cultivar of red maple and not a species tree. My neighbor’s is around 100 feet tall.
Comment by Peter D — September 21, 2007 @ 1:34 pm
Julie,
You had some very nice pictures about a large, old American Beech that was cut down by a house builder in Metuchen. I wanted to show my wife, as we are in the process of having some trees brought into our back yard and American Beech is being recommended (among others). FYI. We live in Somerset, NJ.
Thanks,
Chuck
Thanks, Chuck. Were you trying to find the beech, object of my continued sadness? Whenever I look at that house on the lot now I can’t help wondering if anybody else misses that old tree besides me. And I’m quite certain I’m not the only one.
Comment by Chuck — September 21, 2007 @ 8:46 pm
Yes, that’s the beech I was looking for. Thanks so much. What a specimen. The inside of that tree looked so amazingly healthy. I find it hard to believe someone would cut that down, or even that the town gave them a permit to do so. I will use your link to locate and look at some other beech’s in Metuchen. We also have Lacebark Elm, Swamp Oak (I think it’ also called a bi-color oak), Shumard oak, and Sweetgum on our list. We have several red maples now. Not sure I have ever seen a Lacebark Elm (Chinese Elm) in person. Any good examples in the Metuchen area you know of?
Hi Chuck — Julie here — No, I don’t know of any. That doesn’t mean they aren’t here of course. I just haven’t looked around for that particular tree. Let me know if you find one!
Comment by Chuck — September 22, 2007 @ 8:40 am
Hi, my mother has a couple of Bradford pears in the backyard (we’re in Ft.Worth TX) and within the last two weeks the leaves started turning brown like they are dying. The branches are still really green on the inside though, any idea? Thanks
Hi Patrick — Julie here — If the trees die it’ll be a great opportunity to plant something distinctly UN-Bradford. (Sorry. I’m not a big fan of Bradfords. Sounds like a disease to me. Bradfords are susceptible to fire blight. If that’s what it is, prune the branches back to the healthy part with disinfected pruning tools. Lotta trouble to go to for a “bad” tree though.)
Comment by Patrick — September 23, 2007 @ 3:19 pm
I have a Red Sunset Maple in my front yard and last Spring I collected 5-6 seeds from it and pushed then into a planter containing last year’s potting soil. Four small seedlings emerged and when they were 4-5 inches tall, I transplanted each in its own planter with fresh potting soil for trees and shrubs purchased at Lowe’s. The four continued to grow into mid-summer and then stopped. I was watering weekly; more when it was hot. Right now, they look kinda sickly with mottled leaves and a couple falling off. Advice? I’d certainly like to see them get through the winter. Chuck in Kansas City, MO
Hi Chuck — Julie here — maybe the little trees just think it’s fall already. I would dig a hole, stick the planter in the ground for the winter with some mulch around the base but not touching the trunk — the whole setup protected from running dogs, hungry squirrels and weed-whacking landscapers — then wait and see what happens next spring. Good luck and let me know if they make it!
Comment by Chuck Beucher — September 24, 2007 @ 8:23 am
Hi Jules,
Considering the weather this month, do have a prediction on the the intensity of Fall colors?
Has it been too warm? I’m waiting patiently on the October Glory.
Nothing has changed yet for me except for five or six leaves on the Hornbeam.
Thanks,
Jeff
Hi Jeff — jules here — my October Glory doesn’t usually even BEGIN to show color until around the middle of November. Patience! My prediction? Not a good year. It’s been too warm and not enough rain. But let’s hope I’m wrong!
Comment by Jeff - from Linden — September 24, 2007 @ 5:13 pm
Hi,
I transplanted a sprout from my mother-in-law’s yard of (I think it’s a purple leaf plum) into our yard. 4 years ago when we got married My new hubby said nothing about how the roots may effect a water line from the well to the house. Now it’s maybe 10′ tall and he says “it’s got to go!” Can you tell me about the root system on this tree? I know in my in-laws yard the little sprout are not that deep cause I dug maybe 10 up out of the Mid Georgia red clay. I would love to keep my trees. Can anyone help? The trees are making a good cover to the back of the old family store directly in from of our house. We sit on a hill above and what I see is a roof, weeds and our well. Please help this Georgia girl keep her trees. Oh the water line is only 5-6 feet and not very deep from the trees.
I like your site.
Thanks and God bless
Nancy
in Cumming, Georgia (about 50 miles north of Atlanta, GA.
Hi Nancy — Julie here — It really all depends on how close the tree is to the house. Most trees don’t generally go after water lines. I mean, they aren’t agressive in that way. (Some trees are, like willows and some of those awful hybrid poplars, but in general, for most trees, it’s not a big problem.) The biggest problem with a purple leaf plum is that it grows fast and furiously, up and out, too many branches made of weak wood, too dense. They get large and heavy and break easily. Because of those problems, they are considered short-lived trees. Some, if planted in the right spot and properly maintained, can live 30 or 45 years or longer, but many succomb to wind and breakage after 10 or so, which is how the average gets pulled down to around 15 years. If your tree is within 15 feet of your house, I’d either move it or cut it down, but my decision to do that would’t have anything to do with water lines — I would be more worried about the tree falling on something. That said, please remember that I am NOT a tree expert and I have no formal training in landscape maintenance, so you’d be much better off asking your question to a certified arborist.
Comment by Nancy — September 29, 2007 @ 2:09 pm
This is a wonderful website. If someone is considering planting a tree ( like I was) it lets you see the tree in progress. Even the garden websites do not do this. A tree is a long term item. They show a pic of a 30 yr old tree, but I want to see what I will be looking at for the next 5 yrs. How fast will it block out the neighbors, 20 yrs from now ?? LOL. Thanks Julie for all your work.
Hi Stephanie — Julie here — THANKS! You are so sweet to take the time to write!
Comment by Stephanie — September 29, 2007 @ 10:40 pm
Hi Julie! I hope to see you at the Country Fair this coming Saturday, and was wondering if you’ll have any more of the “October Glory Red Maple” growth-chart posters you had last year. I only found out that they were for sale there after the fact, and must have missed you at the Shade Tree Commission’s booth.
Those photos are truly amazing. There aren’t too many maples near me, so I miss the gorgeous flaming scarlet/orange color. I have way too many pin-oaks; their leaves turn a boring yellowish, and then are just brown and brittle on the tree.
Karen from Woodbridge Avenue.
Hi Karen — Jules here — I won’t be at the Country Fair this year, at least not as the crazy tree lady. The American Legion will be playing my Memorial Day slide show though, I hear, so that’s cool. (I’ll be there in spirit, and might go for a stroll after I get back from my morning photo shoot. So, look for a blonde lady with a big camera. Take it with me everywhere I go.) You got me thinking about making that October Glory fall color change into a poster though! Cool idea!
Comment by Karen Longo — October 1, 2007 @ 1:01 pm
I found your site while searching for the right tree to plant in my front yard. It’s a prime position and requires a special tree. I still haven’t decided.
But I love your site and was taken back by the purple beech story. How could they be so blind.
You’ve probably already heard this from someone else, but in my neck of the woods (eastern Kansas) the seeds of maple trees — usually silver maples — have always been called whirlibirds. They’ll sprout anywhere and everywhere, including house gutters.
I’ll check back again.
Thompy in Topeka
Comment by Thompy — October 2, 2007 @ 12:01 am
Julie,
Just a note to let you know I enjoyed visiting your website. My family has just moved into a new home in the Fredericton, New Brunswick area (in Canada - about an hour North from Maine) and first up on our list of things to do in the fall was to get some landscaping done.
One of the trees I had originally agreed to put in my backyard was unavailable, so the landscaping company surprised me and planted a Greenspire Linden. I didn’t have a clue what it was! A quick search of the internet turned up your nice, informative website and your pictures spoke a thousand words. Thank you.
On a more personal note, your comments about your Linden and your father were very touching. As a brand new father myself, and having just returned from a tour of duty with the Canadian Army fighting in Afghanistan, it was very nice to see someone getting so much pleasure out of nature’s simplest delights. Seeing something like this is inspiring in a relaxed, wonderfully North American kind of way, and reminds me of why people in my line of work do what we do.
All the best,
-Bob Pearson
Hi Bob — Jules here — thank you so much for your kind note. Good luck with your new tree!
Comment by Bob Pearson — October 4, 2007 @ 8:52 pm
Hi Julie,
I was hoping you could help me. I have searched the internet like a crazy woman and cannot find any information that would assist me in resolving my tree issue. I live in Southeastern Michigan and recently ( approx 2 weeks ago) purchased a weeping snow cherry tree from a local nursery. I planted it immediately, fertilized and watered. Weather here has been warmer than normal and we have had a below average rain fall for the last few weeks. But the leaves are curled and it just does not look good. More sadly weeping than healthy weeping, if you know what I mean. Trunk shows no signs of damage. It was on sale/ seasonal clearance and therefore not guaranteed. It is in partial sun, from sunrise until about noon, then full shade. Why are the leaves curling?? Is there anything I can do? Thanks so much for any advice you ( or anyone else) can give.
Kay.
Comment by Kay — October 5, 2007 @ 9:19 pm
Hi Julie, with your love of trees you should really take a trip to the redwoods in Northern California, along the Redwood Highway. They are spectacular! I would love to send you a picture of my family on one of our hikes in the forest. It is one of the most beautiful places I have every had the pleasure of being. I love your photographs, they are simply beautiful…Jill P.S. I came across your website looking for photographs of redbud trees.
Hi Jill — Julie here — I’d LOVE to come see the redwoods ARE YOU KIDDING ME???? I’m emailing you when I’m making my plans. I’ll need a personal guide!
Comment by Jill — October 6, 2007 @ 5:34 pm
Hi Julie, I was checking out some nurseries again yesterday. Remember, I’m going to move my Oct. Glory this March and need something better for close to the house. Well, I finally found Serviceberry trees in a place on Terril Rd. near Sears. They were in an area piled so closely together, that it was difficult to really see what one would be getting. There were three of the “Cumulus” variety, fairly tall (and $259), and one smaller “Autumn Brilliance” (price not marked). From what I can see, I wonder if they have a sufficient density of leaves to be a good shade tree. It’s difficult to get a handle on them this time of year. I like the idea of a white flower display, but ultimately I want to see plenty of leaves outside the bay window during the summer and something to plop down under for a few minutes after a run in the heat. I’m considering “American Hornbeam” for the leaves, but haven’t given up on Serviceberry yet.
Anyway, nursery hopping is fun and uses less gas than a pure carride
Hi Jeff — Julie here — yeah, while serviceberry is considered a shade tree, it’s more of a dappled shade. This can be really good for growing other things under the tree though, like flowers and mums, and those flowers on that cumulus variety you spoke about can be so pretty. I know what you mean about needing some shade after a run though. Hmmm, well, if it were me, I’d get the serviceberry and just go inside after my run! Good luck! Let me know what you decide.
Comment by Jeff - from Linden — October 7, 2007 @ 10:25 am
I just wanted to thank you for the photo diary of the red sunset maple. We sent our landscaper out to buy us a pretty red maple and he called from the nursery to tell us he had found a sunset maple. After googling it and looking at about 10 websites I found yours and it was so valuable to see it in all the different seasons and as it grew. Now that I’ve come over to this website I see that you are a photographer, those gorgeous pictures make more sense. Thanks again!
Thanks Cindy — Julie here — thanks for the nice comments! I need to get out and take some new pictures of that tree. It got HUGE this year! (It needs a trim.) Good luck with your new tree!
Comment by Cindy O'Neil — October 16, 2007 @ 2:57 pm
Julie,
You should grow a black gum. It’s leaves turn bright red in the fall.
Mark.
Comment by Mark Giuseffi — October 16, 2007 @ 9:28 pm
Hi Mark.
When I win the lottery, I’m investing in REAL ESTATE on which to plant my forest. You can bet I’ll have a grove of black gum trees.
Comment by jules — October 17, 2007 @ 8:51 am
It is TIME for a update! how long do we gotta wait?
No new blogs or funny stories in my inbox. What? did everyone go off to college? What happened to the jws site? I like it but you totally redid it after a month or 2. I do like how you have the galleries organized by text links. that makes it easy to find stuff.
I finally bit the bullet and now have flash player. And just as expected I am wasting a lot of time watching u-tubes.
I got a dslr camera. Pentax k100 super. Just in time for fall. So far I love the camera.
Hey Todd — Jules here — you’re making me feel so guilty! Trees! I still love you!
Comment by todd — October 18, 2007 @ 5:23 pm
Oct 21- Absolutely no red on my October Glory
Comment by Jeff - from Linden — October 21, 2007 @ 8:32 pm
Spots of red detected today!
Hey Jeff — Jules here — no color on mine yet. I keep meaning to take a picture. Ugh! Life gets in the way.
Comment by Jeff - from Linden — October 22, 2007 @ 4:00 pm
Dear Julie,
2 yrs ago I opened a Calif. bistro & wine bar. I love the redbud (Western Redbud are native here). Our decor has paintings of flowers & landscapes. I also have an outdoor patio with 3 pansy redbud, 3 Oklahoma redbud, and lots of native redbud. Inside I don’t have any pics of redbud. I have searched high & low.
Would you be interested in selling any photos? They would need to fit a large format or I could cluster a number of smaller format pics.
Your redbud pics are the best I have found!
Thanks - Deanna
Comment by Deanna Glasier — November 11, 2007 @ 12:41 pm
Julie,
I stumbled on this site via your tree diary site when I was looking for information on European Beeches.
I was wondering, with your love of the species, whether or not you have seen the brief video vignette by Tom Wirth, a landscape architecht, done for This Old House on the European Beech. It runs occasionally during This Old House episodes in place of commercials. It is a beautiful piece, that, with it’s stunning imagery, and Wirth’s captivating narration, leaves a lasting impression. You would really enjoy it.
My sister-in-law is a writer and I was going to make sure she saw the piece some day just for its imagery and literary value but when I found your site I felt compelled to make you aware of it. Unfortunately, though I have tried, I can not find the piece as a stand alone item anywhere on the internet. PBS must hold these things dear and not let them float around in cyberspace therefore I can not point you to any convenient location to view it. To see it, you’d have to record or watch new episodes to see if it plays during.
I was appalled at the loss of that wonderful old beech in your neighborhood. What a shame. I think the tree was better looking and contributed more than the new house does. The tree would have eventually died and THEN a new house could have been built. There was certainly no need to rush the process.
Beth, From Ohio
Comment by Beth P. — November 12, 2007 @ 12:38 pm
Hey Jules,
My October Glory is blazing now! I’m expecting the fire department to show up one of these days
Comment by Jeff from Linden — November 21, 2007 @ 7:11 pm
Hi Jules,
The October Glory seems to be losing its’ leaves now. About half are gone. I hope there’s nothing wrong
The dogwood took over the spotlight around the 27th. This is a sneaky tree. It pretends to be giving an ordinary color for several weeks and then suddenly comes through.
Did you finally get some bigtime colors this year?
Comment by Jeff from Linden — December 1, 2007 @ 10:57 am
Well, I put up my white (electrical) evergreens today. Someone should adapt this idea for the rest of the year. Bright red electical October Glory’s for the Fall. I think this could be big!
Comment by Jeff from Linden — December 19, 2007 @ 4:21 pm
Hi Jules,
Well, it’s that time again when I Google tree names trying to find pictures that will convince me of what to do in a month or two
Here’s my deal. I have a corner property with a road with modest traffic towards the left and one with lesser traffic directly in front. From the bay window, there is a certain sense of being exposed to the road passing diagonally by. In addition, my neighbors directly across the street, have put up a giant porch. We are cordial, but there’s this sense of them staring through the window, so the shades stay down, and standing by the front screen door is uncomfortable. So, I need SCREENING!
Not to babble on too much (perhaps I’m too late there :), current candidates are an “Autumn Brilliance” Serviceberry and/or a second “European Hornbeam”. You mentioned the Serviceberry once, and I’ve found a couple of prospects. I know it has its’ spring flowers and summer berries, but how is it for screening?
I’m thinking about putting one directly in front of the window. It’ll get afternoon sun, but may eventually become shaded somewhat by my October Glory which is being transplanted from this general area to one further from the house.
If it’s a really good screening tree, I might try it further from the house to the right of the walk, a better position “perspective”- wise, that would help the porch situation. I’m also looking at hornbeams for this, but the marcescence (clinging winter leaves) of the ones at the nursery is something I’m not sure about.
Thanks for your advice and letting me vent!
Comment by Jeff from Linden — February 3, 2008 @ 11:49 am
I live in zone 7. I want to plant some evergreen
shrubs at the foundation on the west side of my
house. The planting area is 3ft wide by 25ft long,
full sun & windy. White siding I’m sure increases
the summer temp (also the reason I need some
greenery). I’d like something to maybe give the
birds some winter shelter. Soil is about 6.0 &
sandy. Sky Pencil hollies haven’t worked. I was
thinking of Arborvitae - maybe Techny or Brandon?
I’ve also heard of a Technito but can’t find much
on it. Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Carol
Comment by carol — February 7, 2008 @ 3:18 pm
I’ll be interested in what Jules recommends.
I’m not a shrub expert, but have also been struggling with my foundation. My folks used to have mostly yews, which after 20+ years became overgrown giants. I’ve had to start things over and try to figure out what’s what. I’ve noticed yews come in different varieties. The “densiformous” type is lower to the ground and is supposed to be spreading, while the “hicksii yews” have a more upright shape, nearly 3 feet tall, and are supposed to grow more in height than width (they can be 10-15 feet tall, if you let them). I have two Hicksii’s and one densiformous on the side of my house. Yews are supposed to be shade tolerant, thus the choice. I also have a red-twigged variegated dogwood on the side, which has nice white flowers and an interesting winter look with the red twigs.
On the bedroom side of the front of my house, I have a “Nootka false cypress” (also called Alaska Cedar) at the far end. I had an arbovitae there at first, matching one on the other side of the house, but it was kind of hanging out there alone, and didn’t frame the house right. I like the Alaska Cedar better, but it isn’t quite large enough to frame the house properly. I have some golden euonymous stuff next to it that I’m not happy with.. the plants are Ok, but it just doesn’t work. I’m thinking either boxwoods or more yews instead, although where to put the yellow things is difficult. Next to the door, I have a Varigated English Holly on one side (doesn’t quite work) and a dwarf Alberta Spruce on the other (this one looks fine). Basically, I’m thinking of more green and less yellow on the bedroom side.
My main foundation (by the bay window) has the Alberta Spruce, azaela, Japanese Maple, azaela and Arbovitae. I’m Ok with this, although I’m trying to figure out how to get another red-twigged dogwood there for winter interest. The little pieces seem to work Ok at that part of the house, but the bedroom side is crying for lots of evergreen. I like my Alaska Cedar anyway. Wow, I rambled
Comment by Jeff from Linden — February 7, 2008 @ 7:13 pm
Jeff,
First, about the serviceberry — not so much a screening tree, but who cares anyway? I look at it this way, even a chain link fence has a bit of a screening quality, no? It stops the eye from going past, to a degree.
This is what my trees in the backyard do all winter. They are bare, for sure, but the bare branches provide a virtual fence 40 feet into the sky and I don’t even notice my backyard neighbor’s house. (Pre-trees, the house and windows “looking into mine” drove me nuts.)
I like the serviceberry tree. That’s what I would plant. But I swear I don’t know why anybody asks ME. You should see my mess-of-a-yard!
Comment by jules — February 7, 2008 @ 10:29 pm
Carol,
The problem with arbs in that spot is going to the heat reflection and the wind. I don’t think they’ll last very long there. Oh, and they’re not nuts about sandy soil either. But, I don’t know what to tell you as I’m STILL trying to figure out what to replace my dying arbs with, if anything. Now that my big shade trees are BIG, I don’t feel the need to plant much. Too many roots.
Comment by jules — February 7, 2008 @ 10:31 pm
Jeff,
Nice descriptions of your plantings! I can close my eyes and almost see it!
I am tired of winter.
Comment by jules — February 7, 2008 @ 10:32 pm
You were wondering about the purple paint on your beach graft. It is a common practice to color code plants for identification in the nursery for the seasonal workers that dont know a spruce from a maple, so they dont mix everything up. Cute website.
Comment by Tony Weibel — February 12, 2008 @ 6:47 am
I have discovered something about trees which I cannot find documented on any website.
This subject relates to the subject of aromas of wood. Many fresh-cut woods have a charachteristic aroma, some good, some bad. For example,oak, cherry, birch, virburnum, sassafras, etc. It is also known that needles from white fir smell like tangerines when crushed.
But the scent of a freshly broken twig from the tupelo tree is not listed anywhere. It has the exact same aroma as the white fir needles, tangerine.
I stumbled onto this fact while collecting winter twigs for my wood-collecting hobby.
Comment by Neil — February 25, 2008 @ 11:24 am
There is a tree in Hillside Cemetary in Scotch Plains which you MUST absolutely see. There’s a headstone marker in front of it in marble which contrasts with the enormous tree behind. On top of the headstone is an enormous statue of an angel. I’ve got to forward you my dull picture, just for a visual reference. It’s gorgeous.
Comment by Steve Roberts — March 2, 2008 @ 3:23 pm
Hi Julie! I’ve been researching trees/landscaping since we bought our house in Iowa last fall. It is the plainest little house with no landscaping/trees whatsoever! I definitely lack a green thumb and have been very nervous about planting time!
I love your site and it has really inspired me. I feel a little more courageous…and I think I’ve decided to go with the Linden for my first front yard tree:) Thank you for creating such a wonderful ispirational site!
Comment by Dana — March 17, 2008 @ 9:56 am
Hi Jules,
Just bought a 16 foot “Autumn Brilliance” Serviceberry tree at Dreyer Farms (to be delivered tomorrow). He marked it down to $125 because it had been chewed at by a deer, although the tree seems healed. Can’t imagine deer roaming a main street in Cranford, but lucky for me. Wish me luck
Comment by Jeff from Linden — March 24, 2008 @ 2:53 pm
Hi.
Just discovered your website and it’s highly informative (and wonderfully photographed.)
I’m looking for some advice. We just bought a house that has a long, narrow, southern facing backyard (80’L x 25’W) and are in some desperate need of fast growing shade trees.
We live in the suburbs of New York City. I was going to go with either the October Glory or Red Sunset Maple until I saw your note about the surface roots. We have 2 boys (8 and 4) and I know they would be falling all over those as they played in the backyard (thank goodness for your site!) Plus, with the width of the yard being only 25’, surface roots would be that much more of a problem.
So, in short, I’m looking for non-invasive, fast growing deciduous, shade trees that, preferably, would do “fun stuff” in both Spring and Fall. Priority is shade though.
Thanks!
Comment by Anthony Garetti — March 24, 2008 @ 2:54 pm
Hi all,
Crazy tree lady here.
Dana: I love my linden tree! Good luck with your new one!
Jeff from Linden: GOOD LUCK! I’m sure your new tree will bounce back from the deer damage. Serviceberry trees are great! Wish I had that instead of the awful Bradford pears. Biggest mistake ever.
Anthony: That’s a pretty small yard. I have to tell you a funny story though about surface roots. Just yesterday, Bradley and I were out in the yard and I was complaining about what a pain the surface roots are under his October Glory tree. But he said he loves them! He said they provide a nice terrain for his various military vehicles and set ups and they are great for giving a guy a leg-up out of the mud. (Mud which is there because no grass will grow under all that shade.) So anyway, what should YOU plant? I rather like Jeff from Linden’s serviceberry plan for a smallish space like that. But it’s not exactly a shade tree, and isn’t considered a fast-grower. I think “fast-growing” shade trees are WAY overrated though. Fast-growing = weak-wooded, and often also equals shallow roots. Honestly, it’s hard to say what to plant unless I can see the property and understand the landscape, soil and microclimate (amount of sun, water run-off, temperature variations in your area, general windiness). And in any case, a 25-foot space is pretty small for most shade trees. If I were you, though, knowing what I know now about trees, I would plant a tall, narrow sugar maple variety as far away from the house as I could, positioned to take full advantage of the angle of the sun to make shade. Sugar maples are considered slow-growers, but mine has grown quite fast, so go figure. And NO surface roots!
Comment by Jules — March 24, 2008 @ 8:09 pm
I worked a chemical company that had 1000 acres around it. On the property was a european birch that was utterly amazing. It was planted in the early 1800s at a mansion that was on the property.
I have wanted to purchase a tree like that for our yard. This weekend a girl at my daughter’s school passed away due to an illness that has yet to be determined (Vandy Med Center is checking). Anyway, my daughter’s girl scout troop wants to plant a tree in memory at the school. This species would be perfect. Does anyone know who sells them??thanks
JOHN TILLSON
Hi John —Julie here — “European BIRCH” would be a short-lived tree, and, though graceful and popular, they are not usually referred to as “utterly amazing.” It is doubtful there are many birches still around that were planted in the early 1800s. By contrast, “European BEECH” is quite often considered “amazing” and when cared for properly and planted in the right location, can be a very long-lived and much-loved and admired tree. So, first things first: did you mean to type BIRCH or BEECH?
Comment by John Tillson — March 25, 2008 @ 5:33 pm
Yes, I meant to write Beech.
Sorry
I had to send the email to make the scout meeting.
We made a sympathy card and I have been given the duty of finding a tree to plant.
Hi John — Julie here — next question: where are you located, what climate zone? Also, if this tree is to be planted at a school, it’s going to need a LOT of space away from foot traffic and away from children who would bother the young tree. Children climbing up the tree in 40 or 50 years though, that’d be awesome. By the way, I’m sorry to hear of your community’s loss. Planting a beech tree sounds like a good idea to me. But I do recommend that everyone get on the same page as far as caring for the tree and protecting it from disruption for the first several years.
Comment by John Tillson — March 25, 2008 @ 8:23 pm
Hi John,
I’m in NJ now, but lived in Nashville for over 20 years. Very nice area and community.
Jules,
The Serviceberry tree looks great. It’s a pretty substantial tree (probably more like 12 than the 16 ft I said, 3-4 ft wide). The branches are a great “picket fence screen” as you suggested. So far so good!
Comment by Jeff from Linden — March 26, 2008 @ 11:37 am
Thanks again.
I found some growers of European Beech in McMinville Tenn….
The city of trees and shrubs. If you have never been there….it is amazing.
Comment by John Tillson — March 26, 2008 @ 8:20 pm
Hello Julie,
I’ve just purchased a large red Maple that has lost it’s tag. The nursery owner said it is either a red sunset maple or an october glory maple. Can you give me clues as to how to identify the difference between these two varieties - preferably without waiting for fall? Much appreciated.
Julie
Broad Run, VA
Hi Julie — Julie here (crazy tree lady) — the bad news is: I really don’t think there’s a way to tell the difference between a red sunset and an october glory until fall, and even then, without the tag, it’ll just be an educated guess. Honestly, that tree could be any old red maple variety. I was told my street trees (planted by the township’s shade tree commission) were October Glory red maples, and I believed them for about 6 months, until fall, when the trees turned decidedly yellow. I have since come to believe my street trees are Armstrong maples. Looking back on that experience, I probably would have known much earlier if I’d studied the trees really carefully. They were only about 9 feet tall and seriously narrow. This would be atypical of OG — OG has more of a symmetrical, round shape. Their flowers had a distinctive yellow tinge, again, atypical of OG. The leaves had a shape similar to the shape of silver maple, atypical of OG. YOUR problem is that there really isn’t that much of a difference between red sunset and october glory. Except, here’s a few things I know: red sunset has a more natural, asymmetrical, conical shape, whereas OG is more rounded. (I’m talking about the overall tree shape, not leaves.) The leaves on OG tend to be slightly more rounded than the leaves on red sunset, at least that’s the case with MY two trees, and that’s just a GENERAL observation, meaning that some leaves on the OG are more pointed than others. It’s possible that if you study the pictures on my red sunset and october glory pages that you might be able to tell which one you have by a close observation of the flowers and twigs. But probably, you won’t ever really know, until the tree has been in the ground for 7 years and is an established young tree. By then, we’ll at least know what color her leaves are in fall, how long she keeps them, what she looks like in spring, and what her general growth habit is. In any case, I like both varieties, and think they are equally nice trees. Good luck, and I hope this helps. — jws
Comment by Julie Broaddus — March 27, 2008 @ 9:32 am
Hi…I am hopeful that you may be able to offer a solution short of cutting down my neighbor’s linden tree in our adjoining front yard. I reside in Montreal, Canada…therefore Zone 4. The problem – for both my neighbor and myself - is that in the course of late spring/early summer the tree exudes a tremendous amount of sticky sap which virtually coats everything in its path including our front stoop, walkways, and any vehicle parked in the vicinity…creating quite a sticky mess. But most distressing, is that all our leafy, flowering garden plants (medium to shade variety) get coated and, in short order, dwindle and expire. Have you any solutions and suggestions as to any remedy…?
Thank you in advance for any ideas…
Comment by Robert Stern — April 2, 2008 @ 1:26 pm
Robert,
I’m not sure what to tell you because my linden doesn’t shower the place with sap every year. My sugar maple, however, lost it completely this year. It looked like it was RAINING one day — there was so much sap coming out of that tree! You should have seen the squirrels and birds that day. It was like there was a sugar maple festival in town and every little creature stopped by to have a taste. It was scary cool!
Ok, but that doesn’t answer YOUR question. Sounds to me like there might be something wrong with your linden. Borers perhaps? Or beetles? See any little holes in the tree? Any little bugs? Webs? Call a local nursery or certified arborist. Good luck!
Comment by Jules — April 3, 2008 @ 10:09 pm
Julie,
I have a purple leaf plum tree in my back yard as well. It is so beautiful in the spring. I was told by the former owners of our house that the fruit is inedible. Do you know if this is true? Have your tried the fruit? I have been trying to find out if “inedible” means sour or something more sinister. Thanks!
Comment by Lin — April 5, 2008 @ 8:15 pm
Hi Lin,
The fruit is edible if it’s a purple leaf plum tree. The fruit on mine is not very tasty — quite sour actually, but that was years ago when I tried it. Good news is, I’m not dead yet!
Comment by jules — April 5, 2008 @ 8:54 pm
Hi there, I have a question like one I saw in your comments but I did not find a reply to it. I have a beautiful japanese maple that I dug up and transplanted when I moved fall before last. Unfortunately the men who dug it up completely ignored my directions and they chopped off the roots , leaving a less than 2 foot diameter. (The tree is maybe 7 feet tall but skinny.) I was distraught but the damage was done. Last spring, only half the tree leafed out and that part had fewer leaves than normal. Now, it has just leafed out again and unfortunately, only half the tree leafing out- the other half appears dead. What should I do? I live in Northern Coastal California, and yes, you can call me also when you come to see the Redwoods. Thanks for your help- I need it- I will be devastated to lose this tree.
Comment by Marilyn — April 10, 2008 @ 7:42 pm
I try to answer all the questions but I guess I miss some! Sorry! Japanese red maples don’t like to be moved, first of all, so the fact that it was done haphazardly is not good at all. Thing is, if half the tree is dead, it’s not as if it’s going to spring back to life. It is possible that you can train and prune it though. Just consider it a big experiment. Cut away all the dead wood, then do nothing for the next year. Next spring evaluate what you’ve got and decide if it’s worth the time and trouble to attempt the pruning experiment. It could end up being a super special tree. Sometimes nurturing a “special” tree is a beautiful thing to do. Think of it like this: let’s say you bought a ticket to Hawaii, but the airplane sent you to Norway instead. It wasn’t at all what you were expecting and hoping for, but it can be just as wonderful if you give it your best attitude.
Also, don’t be devastated if you lose that tree. Make up your mind now to NOT be devastated if you lose that tree. It’s not your fault. The diggers dug it wrong. If you love JRM trees, and this one doesn’t make it, get a new one! Make sure to plant it in the ONE spot where you’ll know it will stay!
Comment by Jules — April 10, 2008 @ 10:09 pm
Well, the serviceberry tree is loaded with buds, but no flowers yet. They say this is supposed to bloom in “early Spring”. Seems late, but starting to look promising.
They all were looking good today. I’m particularly fascinated by my new columnar European Hornbeam.
It has largely taken the place of the transplanted October Glory, although skewed off to the side and lining the driveway. It’s about
16 feet tall and only 3 feet wide in a formal kind of shape and interesting trunk. This one, (unlike a smaller hornbeam I bought last year for the opposite side) has a mixture now of new growth and clinging light brown leaves from last year. I believe the clinging leaves bit is known as “marscence”. I had wondered if that would bother me, but I’m kind of enjoying it at this stage, watching the remnant leaves blow in the wind. I haven’t found any photos of this sort of thing on the Internet, but think it’s real cool
Comment by Jeff from Linden — April 14, 2008 @ 11:23 pm
Love this site
I have a question well maybe a couple
The first… I just moved into a new home I bought my Japanese maple(not sure which type fringe looking) with me. I put it in in April it was great all season. Winter came and in Michigan up north we had so much snow that I piled it up around the tree and my dogs broke all the branches off and it is just a stick now in the spring…. Will it come back from the base of the tree or did the darn dogs kill it?
Also just brought a Japanese maple (bloodgood) today a